Sustainable Saffron Farming in Newbury: Vision and Experimentation
In a small town tucked away in the woods near Wells River lies a hidden gem: Calabash Gardens, where Claudel “Zaka” Chery and Jette Mandl-Abramson have been cultivating saffron since 2018. This couple’s journey into sustainable saffron farming is a story of passion, experimentation, and a shared vision to create a space of radical love and hospitality.
The Vision: A Journey to Saffron Farming
Eager to start a farm that aligned with their values, Chery and Mandl-Abramson embarked on a quest for inspiration. Their search led them to the world of saffron, the most expensive spice globally, known for its vibrant red-gold color and distinct flavor. With a background in small-farm growing and herbalism, Mandl-Abramson’s dream of farming combined seamlessly with Chery’s intellectual drive.
Inspired by University of Vermont researchers Margaret Skinner and Arash Ghalehgolabbehbahani’s work on saffron cultivation, the couple decided to take the plunge. They purchased their property, invested in 2,000 saffron plants in 2018, and officially opened Calabash Gardens in 2020, expanding to around 120,000 plants in production.
The Experiment: Challenges and Successes
Saffron farming in Vermont is experimental due to its unique life cycle, opposite from most plants. The process involves harvesting the delicate stigmas from the flowers, dehydrating them, and curing them to deepen the spice’s flavor and scent. The laborious process, coupled with Vermont’s rich natural soils leading to fast-growing weeds, poses challenges for the couple.
Despite these obstacles, Chery and Mandl-Abramson have found success in their venture. They employ regenerative agriculture methods, sequestering carbon, and building biodiversity on their farm. They hope to implement a self-sustaining cover cropping cycle filled with herbs for apothecary work, aligning with their vision of sustainable farming practices.
The Impact: Community, Hospitality, and Inclusivity
Beyond the fields, the couple’s work extends to creating a space of radical love and hospitality. Hosting farm-to-table dinner parties and inviting guest chefs to prepare saffron-infused meals, they aim to provide a welcoming space for all. With shares owned by family, friends, and people of color, Chery and Mandl-Abramson strive to build pathways for sharing their saffron and values with the community.
As Chery and Mandl-Abramson continue their journey of saffron farming, one thing is clear: their dedication to sustainable practices, inclusivity, and the power of radical love sets them apart in the world of agriculture. Their story is not just about growing gold in the mountains of Vermont but about cultivating a space where culture, stories, and food bring people together in harmony.
