Brent Kidder: The Man Behind the Butcher Block
Every spring, I make my way from Thetford Center to the Jellison Farm in Bath, N.H., to fetch three tiny piglets. These little ones, just eight weeks old and 25 pounds each, ride home in the back of my truck in a cozy dog crate. As I settle them into their new pasture, a quick call to Brent Kidder is in order.
Kidder, a 41-year-old meat cutter, runs Kidder’s Smoke & Cure, a custom-exempt processor located in Orange, a short drive from Barre. Unlike large-scale processors, Kidder’s operation is not licensed to sell the meat he processes. Instead, he caters to farmers and homesteaders, cutting meat only for personal use under Vermont’s custom-exempt regulations.
In the 12 years since Kidder took over the family business, it has flourished into a team of five, processing up to 300 deer and 1,000 domesticated animals annually. His expertise extends beyond processing to smoking meat, a service he provides not only for his own customers but also for over a dozen fellow processors, totaling a hefty 25,000 pounds of smoked meat per year.
While it may seem like a full-time job, Kidder actually spends 40 hours a week at a Barre granite shed in addition to running his meat processing business. For those like me who rely on his skills, making early reservations for fall processing slots is a must.
Come late October or early November, when our pigs have grown to around 200 pounds each, an itinerant slaughterer named Mark Durkee visits our farm for the next step. Once the pigs are ready, I load them into my truck to take the short drive to Kidder’s shop.
Stepping into Kidder’s facility, I’m met with the sights and sounds of a true artisan at work. With handsaws and boning knives in hand, he meticulously breaks down the carcasses into familiar cuts like hams, pork chops, and sausage. My personal favorite is his breakfast sausage, while my wife prefers the sweet Italian variety, so we make sure to stock up on both.
Not only does the meat taste delicious, but there’s an added layer of satisfaction knowing exactly where our food comes from. It’s a privilege to support local farmers and enjoy the fruits of their labor in such a direct way.
In a recent conversation with Kidder, I delved into his motivations, unusual processing experiences, and the future of his family business.
The Juggler: Balancing a Full Plate
With a full-time job at the granite shed, I asked Kidder why he took on the additional challenge of running a meat processing business and how he manages both roles. Kidder shared that he clocks in at the granite shed for eight to nine hours a day, then heads to his shop around 2:30 p.m. to work until late into the evening. While the business isn’t a major money-maker, it helps cover everyday bills and supports local farmers and consumers.
The Unconventional Eater: A Taste of Adventure
Reflecting on his most unique processing job, Kidder recounted an encounter with an emu, a pet that met an unfortunate end. Instead of letting it go to waste, Kidder turned the bird into smoked emu, which the owner described as surprisingly delicious, resembling ham in flavor. It’s proof that Kidder’s skills extend beyond traditional cuts to more exotic fare.
The Legacy: Passing Down the Knife
Taking over the reins from his father, who led the business for six years, Kidder is now looking towards the future. His 13-year-old son already plays a role in the business, assisting with deer processing and even running his own chicken slaughtering operation during the warmer months. Kidder hopes his son will continue the tradition, instilling a strong work ethic and a sense of responsibility to keep local communities fed.
As Kidder continues to hone his craft and balance multiple roles, his dedication to supporting local farmers and delivering top-quality meat remains unwavering. It’s a labor of love that extends far beyond the butcher block, shaping not only his family’s future but the palates of his loyal customers.
